Maskeliya – To explore the Planes Gawara lived

 Some of you may have heard of the legend of Gawara, an extinct mammal in Sri Lanka known by the scientific name of Bibos sinhaleyus. They belong to bovinae subfamily to which bison, yak, cattle and water buffalos belong to. The Ceylon Gaur was reported by several British writers since 1681 earliest being the writing of Robert Knox. Villages by the names Gawarammana”, “Gawara-eliya”, “Gawara-vila”, “Gawara-kele” and a grass species; “Gawara Maana” (Garnotia exaristata) which grows on highland plains are thought to have derived from this animal.

In January I went to experience one of the villages, Gawara-vila with Summer Explorers on a “Leave No Trace” (LNT) workshop. Let me explain what LNT means in simple words. The foundation of LNT lies in sustainability. As the words imply, it is a sustainable way of camping/hiking where the hikers follow 7 basic principles where the behaviour is focused on minimizing the impact on the environment. These are:

• 1.      Plan ahead and prepare
• 2.      Travel and camp of durable surfaces
• 3.      Dispose of waste properly
• 4.      Leave what you find
• 5.      Minimize campfire impacts
• 6.      Respect wildlife
• 7.      Be considerate of other visitors

Although the term LNT must be new to you, the above principles I believe should be followed by any camper as it is our duty to leave where we went as it is so that those come in future will also have the similar experience like we did. So, the tour was important in two aspects, the LNT workshop and the exploration of Gawarawila. Summer explorers had already got the permissions from the relevant authorities as Gawarawila is considered as sensitive ecosystem and is restricted to access by public.

We left Colombo on a Friday night (earlier than what was planned) and reached Maskeliya by about 7 in the morning. I have known Krishani (Co-founder of Summer Explorers) before, but this was the first time we did a travel together. It was a pleasure meeting her and her husband Sanka as well as some of my usual travel buddies since it was after a long time due to Covid restrictions.

It was drizzling by the time we reached Maskeliya. We freshen ourselves, had some tea, changed our clothes and had our breakfast. Through the window of the shop, we could see Sri Pada at a distance. During the preparation we got ourselves acquainted with the other travel companions as everyone was sleeping during the journey to Maskeliya. We packed our lunch. Something special to note is that all the lunchboxes and the cutlery were disposable ones. This was another aspect of the sustainability that the team was practicing.

We left the shop and drove to Murray state where our hike was to begin. A guide from the village had been arranged already. So, we packed our heavy stuff into a three-wheeler and put on the day packs with the essentials. Krishani gave us a briefing on LNT and what was expected. It was still drizzling when we began the hike. But that was a blessing to take our weariness away.

We trekked through the village, tea bushes. The Gartmore waterfall was visible from a distance. There were some steep elevation gains during the first part. But later we were moving along a gradual elevation. Be reached the point where the three-wheeler had bought our belongings. So, we took the stuff from there and carried them along the rest of the trek which took us about 45 minutes to reach the camping site.

The view and the climate were amazing and soothing. As soon as we went to the camping site, we set up the tents and had our lunch. It was relatively an easy hike or rather a trek. The lunch gave us some energy. The camping site was near a stream, so it gave easy access to water. It was getting bit darker, nevertheless we decided that we should do the hike to Gawarawila planes. So again, we packed our essentials and started moving. By the time we reached a stream which was a midway point, it was getting bit darker. So, we decided to come back to the camping site and rest and to do the hike on the following day morning.

There were some leaches. Bearable. It was getting dark and cold. The girls changed themselves and went to have a bath while the boys started to cook. Having the stream near was such a relief. Me and Mahesh (another member of the team) tried to make a campfire. We tried almost for an hour and finally gave up as the wood was so wet and it was windy.

As the dark approached, the cold also followed it. Me and Sachintha (Another member) who shared the tent decided to have a bath after we finished the cooking. It was pretty dark by the time the cooking was done. We both changed and went into the water which was relatively cold but bearable and had a bath. When we changed and came all were having dinner. That was a wonderful dinner that was prepared by Sanka and the team and after having it all went to tents to have a good night sleep with the hope of getting up early to do the hike before the rains (Fortunately the rains went away during the night)

The guide who came with us decided to go back home as his children were alone. Sachintha was having a stomach problem so he had some discomfort throughout the journey and night. It was relatively cold at night. But we all had good night sleep with the bodies keeping us warm.

Almost everyone was awake early, but most did not want to come out of tents. Sanka and Krishani were making tea. When we finally came out of the tents, it was as if we were forcefully pulled by the Mother Nature so that we do not miss the view. It was such a pleasant view for the eyes. The green colour of the flora and the blue sky were soothing both our bodies and minds. Having the morning coffee with this view was what I call a WOW feeling that came with the package.

Even by the time our guide came back with some Dhal curry, we were not at all prepared to go on the trail. We had a quick breakfast. Sachintha became my tent partner, by bath partner and finally my boga partner as well. We went up stream to find a good pooping spot. Did the thing and came back. There were some beautiful orchids and the upstream was beautiful and calm and my only regret was that I was not able to do some skinny dipping there (Perhaps the next time).

Me and Rasika (Another member) took some of the bags back to the three-wheeler which was waiting down. After a quick breakfast, we started the hike to Gawarawila leaving Sanka and our guide to clear the camping site and with the idea of meeting us at the planes.

The trek to Gawarawila I would rate as an average hike. There were some steep climbs, slippery spots, leaches and the ground was wet. We climbed in some drizzle. My only wish was by the time we reach the planes, it will be clear without mist so that we can get a good peak of the Sri Pada from there.

Finally, we reached the plane. This was the moment I was waiting for almost 2 years. It was muddy like a marsh due to rains. I do not know how to describe the view. It was as if a green carpet was laid on land. It was an entire stretch of grass that extended as far as our eyes could see. Luckily as we came there, there was no mist. But it was beginning to drizzle and we could not spend as much time as we wished. We wanted to go to the point where the waterfall fell (top of the waterfall) but as drizzling was continuing and no one knew the exact route we decided to come back (which is another thing which I would have to do the next time I come here).

We started coming back, met Sanka and our guide on the way and headed back to the camp site. From there we took an alternative route to the one we took to come. I am so glad that we took this path as although difficult it passed through some beautiful cascades of the waterfall. It took us a considerable time to reach the point where our van was waiting. We had a quick lunch and got into the van thinking of finding a place to have a bath.

After travelling for an hour or so we found a beautiful spot by the road, where the seven virgins were visible from the roadside. It was late evening. We had dinner, bid farewell to Sachintha who took a bus to Nawalapitiya and continued our journey back to Colombo.

This was something that the Summer Explorers planned during the Covid break. So, we had many restrictions. As a result, we all were under a tight schedule, limited in travel and exploring. Though I went to Gawarawila Planes, I personally felt that I did not experience it as I wish I could. On another day I would have had a bath on all the streams I came across. I would have spent more time roaming on the planes and even somehow reach the top of the waterfall. But the circumstances were such that, we had to abide by the time constraints, the covid situation and nature of the tour (As it was a workshop and came under approvals from officials).

But this was an escape that I have been wanting to have after months of not being in the wilderness. I met friends that I had not met for months, learnt about LNT concepts and made it to Gawarawila and spend a night in the nature. That was indeed some satisfaction. But was it incomplete? Yes, it was. So, this is giving me room for another visit hopefully on brighter more lighter circumstances.

I am thankful to Krishani and Sanka of Summer Explorers for organizing this even amid such tight controls and regulations. The team also should receive my appreciation for making the journey enjoyable, comfortable, bearable and for many photographs taken that are blueprints of the memories of the experience.

The author Anita Desai said “Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow”. Well even after many months passed from the time, I visited Gawarawila, I still can recall the journey for me to write to let you experience it through my words. This itself is a proof that Gawarawila journey has indeed become a part of me and I’m sure even in another 10 years, I would still recall the memories of this journey.

Thank you for reading and hope you will remain safe.

 

 

 

Journey to the Roof of Africa

When you are always in pursue of adventure, and when you complete one, you always mark it as a milestone to reach your next. It is immaterial as to when you are going to achieve it, how you are going to do it. There's always an inner voice that tells you, you should do it. And from the time I did EBC, I wanted to do something overseas. That is how I made it to Kilimanjaro.

It happened unexpectedly. Senpathi (Sen) who had also done EBC made a post asking for anyone who is willing to do Kilimanjaro with her. I showed an interest and in fact I was among some 10 or so people who wanted to do. Sen had done a lot of background on the trip and finally when we had to make a decision only Sen, Me and Madhawa were left to plan the actual event. As Madhawa was working in Korea, we had to wait till he come down in order to properly meet and discuss the way forward. We had our first meeting at Coffee shop and the next was at a small resort in Mirissa.

Mirissa gave a wonderful opportunity for all 3 of us to get to know each other and we all had a big dream. All 3 of us had financial issues in terms of finding the money but we decided to somehow do it. We selected a company called trekking hero and we started applying for visa. This was the first blow we had. Although we applied about 3 months before getting Tanzanian Visa was a great difficulty. We had to have a confirmed ticket, show money, get yellow fever vaccine. Even when the day was getting closer, we still did not receive any feedback from our agent who was dealing with visa (We actually had to apply through the embassy in New Delhi).

Then the biggest blow happened. While Sen was away in Honduras, my annual leave was cancelled by my company because I had to complete a special project. I was a total asshole and last minute giving up on this was something I knew that I could not be forgiven for. But this was beyond my control. I have not received any confirmation in my company and this leave was already rejected. By that time I have already made an initial payment for the tour and also made a flight booking. Madawa also had a blow in the sense he had issues in getting visa through Korea. Sen was furious and that was fare as both of us sort of dumped her at the last moment. But fortunately or unfortunately, Sen also has not got her visa. Both of our visas were still pending. So our dream of doing Kilimanjaro was about to be a dream.

The all of a sudden I got a call from our visa agent that my visa has got approved. Still Visa of Sen was pending and Madawa's was at a standstill. So I sent my passport to be sealed and when I got the visa for 3 months, it was expiring on the 3rd of November. So it there was anything to be done, I had to do it before November.

First clarity was to be obtained from my line manager. When I told him, he gave me the permission and approval for leave. But I had a money issue. So the only solution was to apply for a short term loan which I did. So with the limited money and the time, I had to be only satisfied with Kilimanjaro and give up the idea of a Safari or Zanzibar tour. I told both Sen and Madawa and they wished me. So I made arrangement with trekking hero and planned to join a group there.

Unlike EBC, I didn't do much training and preparation. I had to take anti malaria tablets. Fortunately I had the clothes and other equipment that I bought for EBC. So within a few days I arranged everything and started on my journey. There were lot of wishes from my office colleagues and other friends. My family and those were the only strength that I had when I left Katunayake that day. At the airport, one lady immigration officer in fact asked me whether I was climbing Kilimanjaro and when I said yes, she had a brief chat and encouraged me as well. So as a lonely hiker I left Sri Lanka to Tanzania having doubts of whether I am to do it. It was a long journey. From the flight from Nairobi to Tanzania which was about one hour, I could take my first glance at Kilimanjaro from one side and mount Meru on the other. This actually raised hopes in me where it was standing as a giant and looking so majestic from the top.

When I got down, a representative from the company was waiting for me. I have so far only corresponded with emails. I have not seen them. But fortunately everything went well. He took me the vehicle where Bradely was waiting. He was Irish. He was the fist person to meet from our team. Then two guys Mark from Canada and Balan (An Indian working in Malaysia) also joined us. They were friends and have been travelling together.

While enjoying the Tanzanian  country side from the windows of the vehicle we went to the hotel being tired after a long flight. Bradely and me shared a room while the other two shared one. After a good sleep for a couple of hours I got up. We were to meet the rest of the crew in the evening and our travel guides from the company was to come to give us brief on the tour.


So in the evening we went down and we were joined by Taciana, Pawan and Earl (a couple), Sahir and Shoba (Another couple) and Shekar (Indian working in Tanzania). There were some more to be met the following day and we all were given a briefing as  to what to expect. They checked whether we all have got all the equipment that was needed. With a Hakuna Matata we ended the day after a brief getting to know each other. We all knew that we will not have a good sleep thinking about the big journey ahead. While in the room me and Bradley had a chat and we both were so excited, him specially being the youngest in the crew.


After the morning breakfast, we packed our things and waited for trekking hero to come and take us to the starting point. So we went into the van which was already filled with some new faces who were to join us. Then we stopped for a some time while the crew packed all the necessary equipment, food items, other utensils needed for the journey. Then we stopped near a supermarket for some to buy some last minute items and headed towards the Mechame gate which took us about 1.5 hours.


Kilimanjaro can be summitted by five main routes namely Marangue, Machame, Rongai, Shira and Lemosho. Each of them have their own advantages and disadvantages in terms of cost, duration, level of difficulty and so so. I choose the Machame which was a 6 day journey and is supposed to be one of the most beautiful and picturesque routes. So when we got down at the Machame gate, we had all the members in the team. There were 12 of us in the gang. We were a diverse groups. There were Canadians, Americans, Asians, Irish and also of both genders and also different age groups. I was indeed happy to see Shoba and Sahir whom everyone called Mamma and Pappa among us. They proved that age will not be a barrier if you are determined to do something in your mind.
So that is how it was started. We had a good lunch which was packed. And then we got ourselves registered and started our 6 day journey around 2 p.m.


Our destination was Machame camp for the day. This was about 11km from the gate and we had to take a route through a rain forest. As it was the first day and and I was not fully prepared it was getting a bit hard. On top there were in some places some steps to climb as well which I usually do not like during hikes. We were ascending from a height of 1640m to around 2850m. But the rain forest was an eye catcher. Green on either side was very pleasing to the eyes. The forest was rich in mosses, ferns but not many animals except for some monkeys, millipedes, rats. From the beginning what the guides say was "Poly Poly" which translated meant slowly slowly. In fact this was true. When you have a slow pace, that helps you for better acclimatization. It took us about 5 hours to reach the camp. All of us were at different speeds. It was like a warm up for the coming days.


The camp was already filled up with tents by the time we reached. The porters have already gone, set up the tents and started preparing our meals. I shared the tent with Shekar, who became my travel companion all the way. It was bit cold towards the night. we had some soup and some rice and went to sleep in the tents.


The following morning we had to be ready by 7. There were basins with water kept in front to clean ourselves. Then we went to the tent where the breakfast was ready. For all 12 of us, this tent was the place where we meet for breakfast, lunch and dinner where we have a small chat and discuss on the journey and what lies ahead.


Day two was harder. Our target was Shira camp was located about 3810 m high. Highest than Pidurutalagala which was the highest point in Sri Lanka. Although it was only 5km away, the steep was too high. Many rocky paths to undertake and mostly we had to pass through heather and moorlands. We reached the camp earlier than the previous day. Then we made a small tour to see the Shira caves where we heard ancient stories of how it was those days. This night gave us a good view of the summit. Also the evening was so beautiful specially the sky with beautiful colours.


Toilets were bit bad. So Shekar and me decided to poop outside. So in the night we took a bottle of water and went into the open and pooped behind a bush. I had cold water (Reasonably cold). So had a nice time for the butt. I guess this is where the Westerners are at an advantage as they only wipe and do not use water to clean their butts.


As usually we got up and had our breakfast on the following day morning. The day had two stops. We are to have lunch at the Lava tower and then reach the Barrcanco camp. Lava tour was about 4630m altitude while Barranco camp was having an altitude of 3975m. This was a good acclimatization for all. We continue to the east up a ridge and then head southeast towards the Lava Tower – a 300 ft tall volcanic rock formation. We descend down to Barranco Camp through the strange but beautiful Senecio Forest. This is where you really begin to feel the effect of altitude sickness. Headaches, nausea. Many even vomited, some had diarrhea. Somehow we managed to overcome this. But one of our members got asthma so she had to discontinue the journey and go back. It was a very cold and a tired night. We travelled about 10km.


The following day was the summiting night. We got up as usual and started our journey towards  Barafu Camp which was at an altitude of 4673m. It was also about a 9km long trek. We began the day by descending into a ravine to the base of the Great Barranco Wall. Then we climb the non-technical but steep, nearly 900 ft cliff. From the top of the Barranco Wall we crossed a series of hills and valleys until we descend sharply into Karanga Valley. One more steep climb up lead us to Karanga Camp. We left Karanga and hit the junction which connected with the Mweka Trail. We continued up to the rocky section to Barafu Hut. At this point, we had completed the Southern Circuit, which offered views of the summit from many different angles. Here we made the camp, rest and enjoyed an early dinner to prepare for the summit day. The two peaks of Mawenzi and Kibo are viewable from this position.


We were to summit around midnight that day. I was exhausted. Even a little of altitude was getting into my head. I was having second thoughts as to whether I would do this or not. There were moments where I wanted to give up. Then Shekar came and encouraged me and said lets do it as we came all the way. I remembered my family and all people waiting in sri Lanka. I knew if I didn't do it that day it will never happen. So I boosted up my courage and decided to do it whatever there was. I could not eat that day too. Just had a hot tea and out we went into pitch darkness and extreme cold. Only our headlights and the guides were there to lead us along the way.


It was the longest walk ever. The time seems to be still. Every breath made me exhausting. We were climbing up and up with no sense of where we are. The frequent question we asked was are we there yet or how long, how many hours more. It was so cold even to get water out to drink. Most of the water in my non thermal bottle froze. The entire group was scattered. Me Shekar and Sahir were finally together with our porter. It was so tired even to tie up a shoelace. There was no giving up. we had to continue. This went on. The peak was almost visible but we were not there physically. I was covered fully with snow. On either side it was covered in full with snow.


The wind and cold at this elevation and time of day was so extreme as this was not the season. Finally we reached the Stella Point (18,900 ft). Most people stop there because of the exhaustion. BUt we decided to move on to the highest point.  Finally, we arrived at Uhuru Peak- the highest point on Mount Kilimanjaro and the continent of Africa. Yes I made it, to the roof of Africa. The feeling is indescribable. I was so tired but overjoyed. After taking a few photos we started descending.


It was as if the legs had withered out. Rather than climbing down it was as if we were moving with gravity. I fell many a times in sand. The snow in the morning had melted. It was sand now. Like the ascend we descended. I honestly didn't care as to where I kept my step. I just wanted to climb down as fast as possible. So finally we reached the camp. Both Shehar and me were so tired. We hugged and then went straight into the tent to have a small nap. By the time we were called for lunch all of us had reached the camp. All 11 of us did the climb but only some could made it up to the summit. Pawan was asked to be married at the top (Which I thought was Romantic and something that any girl would love to have). We started to move to the next camp. It took us about 2 hours to reach the camp. we were so exhausted. Everyone was waiting to have a good night sleep. It was a happy night as we did it. The weather was bit bad and we received some showers. Our tent got wet with water as well. But because of the exhaustion we didn't care.


The following day was the last bit of the trek. We had to walk for about 5 hours to reach the gate. It was still raining and the road was muddy. All of us just moved. Legs bearly being able to walk. We were soaked in water. But slowly slowly we did it and when the gate was almost visible to the eyes, the feeling was so immense that I felt like crying. But everyone was happy. Everyone was congratulating each other, cheering. It was a night to celebrate. What was in all of our minds was hot showers, cosy beds, warm rooms.


At each camp we went we had to sign in which was a sign that we made it. The final signing was to be done at the gate. We were so hungry as well. So finally the most awaited bus came. And we went back to the hotel before which we had a short stop for a quick lunch.


Throughout the journey we had to sleep in tents. Most of the time it was only a few clothes to wear. No place for us to have a bath, no proper toilet. Most of the time it was out in open. Cold weather, wind and rain were additional challenges to the altitude. And as many said this was the worst time to hike Kilimanjaro.


But life is always about challenges. If it was the same routine the life will always be boring. Once in way it is good to move out of your comfort zones, push your limits and see where you can go. These types of adventure shows us that we need to be ready to face even minimal conditions that life would offer.


It is not always possible to choose what you want. Sometimes you have t o give in for what the life expects out of you. When you look at the porters that carry your luggage and think about how much they sweat in order to earn a few dollars, the level of poverty that they face, we feel how grateful we are for having what we have today.


Another thing is to remember is that excuses like age and gender should not be a barrier when it comes to pursue what you dream and passionate about. It is when you stepped out of your box that you live and go to into the world to see what is happening outside, you realize that what a narrow minded life we live, how narrow our perspectives are. You need to mix and associate people whom you do not meet regularly and get to know their thinking patters, behaviours, views on life. We live in a global environment. We have to get that global exposure.


So I thank all my team members, Trekking Hero, my family and all my well wishes who were there and made the summiting of the journey possible.


Live your life, constantly challenge your self. You will always find a different version of you.