The Journey to the Furthest Island from Sri Lankan Mainland

I travel anywhere that is possible but among them some becomes important because of the location that we go to. Going to the furthest island from the Sri Lankan mainland had always been in my bucket list. So, I made it a point to somehow complete it during this year.

That is when I saw the post by Ahindas “Beyond the Border”. They have planned a tour to Kachchatheevu and I made it a point to somehow join this. As there was a big rush from the very beginning, I gave a call to Sasitha and secured my location. At the beginning there was an argument as to whether to take the train or to travel by bus, but after many struggles it was decided to take a bus, I guess which a good decision from everyone’s point of view was.

To tell something on Kachchathiv, it is an uninhabited island administered by Sri Lanka and was a disputed territory claimed by India until 1976. The island is located between Neduntheevu, Sri Lanka and Rameswaram, India and has been traditionally used by both Sri Lankan Tamil and Tamil Nadu fishermen. The island originated from a volcanic eruption that occurred in the 14th century. In 1974 India recognized Sri Lankan ownership of the island on a conditional agreement.

There stands the only religious structure, St. Antony's Catholic Shrine which holds 100+ year old traditions and was built by an Indian Catholic (Tamilian) called Srinivasa Padaiyachi. No one is required to possess an Indian passport or Sri Lankan visa for visiting Kachchatheevu.

The church festival runs for three days. The priests from both India and Sri Lanka conduct the mass and car procession. According to this report there are historical documents dating back to 1609. According to a report the island belonged to the Sethupathis, a royal family who ruled over the district at the time. Two centuries later, the British officials leased Kachchatheevu and maintained it. After 1947, the island became an owner-less land as the members of the royal family could not claim ownership to it any more under Vallabhbhai Patel’s watch.  The island was never suitable for habitation as there were no basic facilities on it such as water. Neither the army nor the LTTE had occupied the island during the conflict period due to this fact.

So we were divided into 5 groups Manas Bears,  Nippas Buffaloes, Kelumas Racoons, Babas Apes and Sasis’ Tuskers and I was in Mana’s team short for Manoj. All were new except for Manoj and Sudesh. But within a short time, we got to know each other. The purpose was to get ourselves better organized, as it was a crew of 52 people and it was indeed a good decision as through the team leaders, we were able to organize ourselves and get ourselves updated with new communication. Each team was secretly plotting against each other to do this and that. Everyone was excited, and the excitement grew intense as the day came closer.

So, everyone was promised of a luxury travel with AC, Wifi and toilets. We gathered at the Fort station by around 8:30 p.m. and were waiting for our VIP bus. Although we were to leave by 9:30 p.m. it took us more time than planned to collect all that were coming to Fort. So, after a long wait, we kicked off the journey towards Jaffna. There were few to be picked on the way and the fun started inside the bus as guys got in. I was sleeping but could here music and slight singing both from the front and the back. Bus got caught by the police for some offence but apart from some pee and tea breaks, the bus continued, and we reached Jaffna before the time we expected.

Straight away we went to the Jaffna Railway station where we had to pick some more of our companions. We also met few friends from other groups. After saying goodbye to them hoping to meet them in the island, we went to have our breakfast.

By the time we reached the place, the shop was not fully open. I guess that was the first time they had to feed 52 hungry mouth at such an early time. Everyone ran to the toilets to release what was held during a long time and to get fresh. Orders were coming from everywhere, Paratas, dosai, wade, Pittu, string hoppers, sambaru. Everything vanished in a split of a second that they were kept. I guess Ahindas fame for eating is not a lie. Then they served plain tea and milk tea but without sugar. Some of our guys had to go to the kitchen to turn them into a proper drink. So, after another toilet break, we continued our journey towards Kurikattauwan Jetty from where we had to take a ferry to the island.

 

On our way we had to give our details to the Navy officer before we were to get on board. So as there were 52, we started filling details from the two end of the bus hoping that by the time we reach the jetty we would be able to complete it.

On getting down we split into the teams and grabbed whatever the belongings we had and off went to get into the boat. We had to wait in queue and the names were called according to the list. The first few of our members had the chance of getting into the ferry that was about to leave. This was the boat no 20. So those who got the tickets flew to take their places in the boat. The rest of us who were remaining didn’t even know that they left but only when we saw a live video that we realized that they were already on the way.

We had to wait almost an hour till our ferry got filled and was ready to move. It was a journey for about 3 hours. I was sitting down whereas most of the others went into the deck where they wanted to have a sun bath and a good view. I lull of the boat made me sleep. But the others had an enjoyable ride, and some have even got sea sick and started to vomit during the journey. The travel seems to take ages. It was a smooth ride but relatively long.

So, after traveling for nearly 3 hours we saw the site of navy ships and landmark from a distance. As there were many other boats that were taking people into the island, we had to disembark from the Indian point. We got down and took all our bags and other items. Through the security checks we passed and entered through a big pandol that was erected welcoming all to the festival. As we were too hungry and thirsty, we helped ourselves with the orange juice that some vendors were selling by the road side.

We started walking along the road that lead to the island, through many vendors shouting and selling many items on either side of the road. All of us were wanting to set up the camps and have a rest. We wanted to find the others who we thought would have landed by now and was settled. So, we went near the church which was having the sermon and waited till Sasitha, Prabath and the rest of the organizers went in search of the others. The church was fulled with people both from Sri Lanka and India. Thery were praying in Tamil. A cross was moved along where many wanted to touch it as if to get the blessings.

After some time, they returned saying the other boat had got lost in the seas and a rescue mission was on the way to bring them back to the island. So, we were having mixed feelings of joy and worry as Mana was the one who oversaw the group along with Sajith and Nadeeshan. We have already named them the 20/20 clang or the lost gang. The others were able to find a place to camp and have already made some tents and were settling down when Sasitha and the team returned saying that they have found a better place near the sea in the beach. So, we repacked our belonging and off we went towards the sea and along the beach which was comparatively small where we reached our camping site for the night. It was indeed a better place compared to the previous one except for the cacti that were there, rocks and some dumps made by people. So, we immediately started setting up the camps.

The issue was our items were divided into two. Part were with us while the remaining part was with the lost gang. So, we started managing with whatever we had with us. One tent was completely out of the ordinary where we had to use tape to fix the poles. With the initiative of Namal we were able to fix that. Some of the team went for a quick dip in the sea but returned soon as someone had said them not to have a bath.

The next was weather to cook or to take the meals that were given by the navy. We didn’t have the proper utensils to cook. So finally, we heated up water and started making tea and drinking. After the tea as it was getting dark, we decided to have a bath while waiting for the 20 gang to come. Finally, the lost gang returned. Their faces told the entire story. They were scared, exhausted, hungry. Some quickly made tea and served them from which they revived a little. I was having a deep conversation with Supun, Namal, Nadeeshan and Don on life when we saw the others have started cooking dinner. We decided to have a bath ourselves and get ready for the night.

We had egg fried rice with Chilliepaste that night. As most of us hadn’t had anything for lunch everyone was hungry, and we ate a quite a lot. After dinner I was searching for a place to doze off and found a tent and slept. Chanuka and Nadeeshan later joined. All 3 slept and was joined by another guy whose name I don’t remember now. It was not a comfort sleep as we were sleeping on a rocky shore. All through the night we could hear chit chat, singing and sound of cooking.

Menaka has got together with Nuwan and had cooked noodles with meatballs. We were planning to get up around 4 a.m. and catch the first boat that was to leave the island around 7:30 according to Sasitha. So, by 4, Menaka was shouting at everyone waking all and feeding them noodles. Almost everyone had a very early breakfast. The hardest part was to wake everyone up, clear the site and leave to catch the boat. So, with many shouts we were able to wake everyone up. Some were already dismantling the tents while others were inside. Some went to have a dump, others cleaned the dishes, cleared the site and finally everyone was about to leave when the need came to take the group photos.

So, several minutes were spent to get some group photos, selfies, photos of clicks, couples. Finally, we left the beachside heading to the gate. As we had an early breakfast and there would be no food for nearly 3 hours most of the gang bought some food on the way.  Some even collected the food that was distributed by the Navy from the coupon.

We came out and waited but already there were many people lined to get into the ferries. One thing was in our minds. Come what may, this time we will all go in the same ferry. People were rushing from all ends trying to squeeze through. Somehow, we managed to get into the boat. Like the previous occasion, I stepped into the basement. The rest went on the deck above. Like the previous time it took us almost 3 hours. People were vomiting, sleeping, up and down with the waves. And finally, we could see the jetty, and everyone was getting ready to step foot in the mainland.

We stepped out of the ferry, I do not know what we felt after than long sea journey. We were each given a number to keep. The navy officials checked the number, maybe they wanted to know whether all that went returned. So off we went by foot to our VIP bus. We were drained off. Earlier we were planning to do a city tour, but the time did not permit us. We all were super hungry, and we went to Jaffna town to fill our tummies.

We went to a shop and had rice to our tummies fill. Many took this opportunity to release themselves and there was a long queue near the bathroom. Meanwhile the most were waiting for toddy. We managed to get some bottles before we reach Casurina beach to have the long-waited bath. By the time we reached Casurina some were half intoxicated and there was only about 15 minutes to have a bath.

We took our clothes off while we were running towards the sea and jumped right into the water in order to take the maximum use of the time available. Ahindas is famous for their ‘Joka’ Pose where the guys took off their underwear under water and hold it with both hands for others to see. So, this time also they didn’t forget to do so. Then we also tried to make a human tower and was managed to keep it at least for a few minutes. Then we heard the call from the Navy to get out of the water almost at sunset.

It was indeed a beautiful sunset. The sun was like a golden ball slowly going down. It was as if the sun set was adding the climax to the journey. We changed our clothes and went into the bus refreshed. Almost all of us dozed off. But Jaffna would not have been complete without tasting an ice cream from Rio. So, we went but the usual route was close due to a festival. So, we had to walk by foot. Through the festivities we walked toward Rio where we had ice cream, I had chocolate as usual.

Chamara was celebrating his birthday, so the guys prepared to surprise him with a cake. We went into the bus and headed towards Colombo and stooped for dinner midway where we had Koththu and celebrated the birthday of Chamara as well. And off we went, and the driver took us back to Colombo safely where we stopped to fresh ourselves halfway early morning and returned home safe.

This was indeed a well-organized trip. Planning a trip for 52 people is not easy specially looking after the logistics. Throughout the journey I saw the unity among Ahindas. I usually prefer small crowds to travel. But this trip made me acquainted with many wonderful souls whom I believe would meet over and over again during many more travels. Sea Martin 20 would remain and talked over occasionally for the little adventure that they had during the journey. Hopefully they will not encounter similar situation again and will think twice before stepping in any boat hereafter.

Kachchatheevu was a wonderful journey that would last a lifetime. I would forever be grateful for Ahindas for arranging this and making a chapter full of many memories.

Was it mere luck..to have survived...Lakegala...an adventure that I would not repeat

Meemure is a village situated in the Central Province of Sri Lanka. It is an isolated village which is about 33km from Hunnasgiriya and the road is a very difficult and a broken one. In the East of the village lies the pyramid shaped Lakegala mountain.

Lakegala is a mysterious looking mountain that is 1314m tall. The mountain bears many unmarked ruins, including caves with evidence of ancient human inhabitation. Some of the other attraction in the Lakegala region are Nawathna Waterfall, Ravana Falls and hiking trails in the deeps of Lakegala.

It is a dream of many hikers to climb that, even an attempt to climb it requires so much of guts and courage. This was in the back of my mind for a long time, but I have been postponing this for many years due to various reasons. There were many deaths that had happened in the mountain and many people would avoid it if they could because of the danger that is involved in the climb. Lakegala. requires great amount of mental & body preparation. Do not try to do this hike if you don’t have self-confidence and you are not ready to take risk & it’s a life-threatening experience.

Couple of months back I was planning to do the climb, but this got cancelled due to bad weather (Never attempt the climb during rains). There were a couple of guys who were interested in doing this and Namal was one of them. After the road trip, me, Namal and Akila was determined to somehow do this and was waiting for an opportunity.

One day Namal called me and asked what I was doing during the weekend and I had two exams and an anniversary party at a friend’s on Saturday, but Sunday was free. He said some of his friends are climbing Lakegala and asked me whether we shall also join them. Nadeeshan another friend was also available but all of us were occupied but later decided to travel on Saturday late night hoping to climb Lakegala on Sunday morning.

So around 11 p.m. I joined Akila and Namal and on the way we picked Nadeeshan. I was tired, having travelled from Kandy and a bit tipsy too. Having had few tea breaks on the way, we reached Kandy lake where we met another two of Akila’s friends who have travelled all the way in a motorbike. Supun another friend was waiting in Kandy and we met him at the Kandy view point and off we went towards Hunnasgiriya. During our last tea break, accidently we met another two guys in the same shop who were also joining our trip because we were mentioning the name of Don Amila who was the one who was organizing the event with Sachinthani who said that it was possible to travel by car.

When they saw our vehicle, they said it might be difficult to travel in that because of the condition of the roads. So, we asked the two bikes to go ahead, and we followed slowly. When we turned from Hunnasgiriya joint and was travelling the road gradually became broken, difficult to travel. Me and Nadeeshan had a small nap on the way but Namal and Akila was awake. We gradually came to realize the difficulty of the road. When we passed the Corbet’s gap the road was beyond any travel by the Car. We were getting down on several points but still it was not possible to travel further. So, we decided to leave the car behind. Luckily, we were closed to a hotel, so we talked with the caretaker and left the car behind. We got a telephone number of a 3wheeler and called him to take us to Meemure Mee Gaha.

While we were waiting, another vehicle passed, and we asked whether at least one of us could get a ride with them but they refused. We were waiting for almost an hour and still there was no sign from the 3wheel guy. While cursing all and waiting in cold, a van passed and stopped. We had a chat with them and they agreed to give us a lift. They were from Atlas company a group of guys. It was indeed such a relief for all of us. Otherwise we could have waited forever.

Those guys were some jolly good fellas. They treated us as if we were part of them. Eating, drinking and stopping on the way we really enjoyed and welcomed the comfort that they offered. Meanwhile, the 3Wheeler guy followed us but we pretended that we were not the culprits and while cursing us he went back.

We were planning to meet at Mee Gaha around 5;30 a.m. but by the time we reached the spot it was almost 10:30 a.m. as the road was so bad and we had to get down at several locations to help the vehicle move. I was not in a mood to continue the journey to Lakegala as it was too late, and I was damn tired, but others were waiting for us and was ready to go, I also agreed. But this is not the way someone should do Lakegala.

So, after a quick breakfast, we started our journey with a guide Kamal from the Village as Sudu ayya who was supposed to come had to attend another task. The first few hours were relatively ok. We were travelling through streams, trees, taking some breaks and finally end up with near a water where we had a bit of a rest before we started the difficult part of the journey.

The weather was good. I was too sunny. The slope was so steep. Its triangular face that stands on a base of about 2.5 miles in length from west to east with a sharp apex rising over 3000 feet from its base towards the heavens is perhaps the most fascinating and breathtaking creation of mother nature on this earth. It has three peaks and the Southernmost facing Meemure is the highest and the most enchanting. The whole mass exhibits a SW-NE trend with a dip slope to the SW. The three peaks are arranged in a NW-SE direction with a horseback like summits. These summits are covered with a thin layer of earth not more than few inches deep with few-stunted pigmy bushes struggling to survive.

There are two accesses to the point (Meeriyagolla) from where we start the accent. One is on the south, through Meemure, and the other on the North through Laggala. The southern access is easier. One must trek about three miles uphill through difficult terrain from the village whose elevation is about 1200 ft. to reach the base. It takes about two hours to reach the base. The villagers consider the climb as a mark of bravery and courage. Of cause before one attempts this feat it is customary and compulsory too that he should first visit the village Devale (The temple of the gods) and obtain the permission and blessings from the presiding gods of the region. It guarantees a safe and easy climb and return without any misfortune. It is also customary that the climbers on their descent too visit the Devale for thanks giving.

The climb from there was strenuous. There were many of different abilities. Some were as light as the wind, so they pushed through the trees, and reached the base quicker than the others. I followed as best as I could and was able to reach the base from which the climb through the crevice was to begin. By the look of itself the mountain could easily scare anyone from moving further. It was that scary.

Some of the team decided not to go ahead. Me being a bit acrophobic, however decided to move ahead one for being come all the way so far and the second I knew that I will not be doing this a second time. So, we were waiting in the crevice while our guide climbed up and tied the rope in the metal that was fixed on the top and dropped it down for us to climb.

It was such a strenuous climb. I made it a point not to look down. But the view was spectacular. When we reached the summit, I was too exhausted. My legs were almost shaky. I knew that this was it. I could not go further, as there was also the way down which was even scarier. So, I stayed, while the others continued to the view point. I was happy that I made it so far and was enjoying the view.

It was almost 5 p.m. when others came back. We were supposed to be back at the village by that time. So, we started the climb down. We could see sudu Ayya from the top who had come to look for us. It was so scary. We all relied on the rope. If there was a slightest slip, that would have been the end.

By the time we reached the base, it was becoming dark. Luckily, we had some torches and phones. We all were exhausted, hungry, thirsty. We were moving through the bushes. Our legs just moved on. Slipping on many a times, we just continued. We were just following behind the guides in pitch dark. Two of our members almost got lost but luckily found their way back. Finally, we reached the water body. Some of us opened the lunch packed and ate as it is even though they were bad, as we were too hungry.

We continued, the final part, back to the village, as fast as we could, as we wanted to come out of this. And finally, we made it. By the time we reached the house of our host, we were too tired to do anything. We had a bath, had a dinner and had to leave back to Colombo as all of us had work on the next day.

Akila who had to drive all the way, as none of us could, was too tired. We let him sleep but I knew he was too tired. Without him we would not have been able to go back to Colombo Safe.

This is how the hike ended. If you are planning to do this hike, keep these things in your mind.

Do not go with a large group. Make sure you have as much of safety as possible specially harnesses. Take plenty of water, energy snacks. You need to be confident of yourself. Remember no matter how many are there, you are on your own. A slightest slip would bring you down.

On the way whenever you feel like stopping, do it. Do not take a risk. If you are not confident, no matter what others say, make sure you stop. You are your best judge not someone else. You will understand what scary looks like when you are at such a hike. It will test every inch of your courage, confidence. Do not take any unnecessary risks and always listen to the guides.

I am glad that I am alive today. As many say it was indeed some sort of luck and blessing. I am glad I did it by challenging myself a step further. But one thing I am sure, I would not attempt this a second time.

A special thanks to Namal. Akila, Nadeeshan, Amila and all others who were part of the team. Without you all, this would not have been possible.