It happened unexpectedly. Senpathi (Sen) who had also done EBC made a post asking for anyone who is willing to do Kilimanjaro with her. I showed an interest and in fact I was among some 10 or so people who wanted to do. Sen had done a lot of background on the trip and finally when we had to make a decision only Sen, Me and Madhawa were left to plan the actual event. As Madhawa was working in Korea, we had to wait till he come down in order to properly meet and discuss the way forward. We had our first meeting at Coffee shop and the next was at a small resort in Mirissa.
Mirissa gave a wonderful opportunity for all 3 of us to get to know each other and we all had a big dream. All 3 of us had financial issues in terms of finding the money but we decided to somehow do it. We selected a company called trekking hero and we started applying for visa. This was the first blow we had. Although we applied about 3 months before getting Tanzanian Visa was a great difficulty. We had to have a confirmed ticket, show money, get yellow fever vaccine. Even when the day was getting closer, we still did not receive any feedback from our agent who was dealing with visa (We actually had to apply through the embassy in New Delhi).
Then the biggest blow happened. While Sen was away in Honduras, my annual leave was cancelled by my company because I had to complete a special project. I was a total asshole and last minute giving up on this was something I knew that I could not be forgiven for. But this was beyond my control. I have not received any confirmation in my company and this leave was already rejected. By that time I have already made an initial payment for the tour and also made a flight booking. Madawa also had a blow in the sense he had issues in getting visa through Korea. Sen was furious and that was fare as both of us sort of dumped her at the last moment. But fortunately or unfortunately, Sen also has not got her visa. Both of our visas were still pending. So our dream of doing Kilimanjaro was about to be a dream.
The all of a sudden I got a call from our visa agent that my visa has got approved. Still Visa of Sen was pending and Madawa's was at a standstill. So I sent my passport to be sealed and when I got the visa for 3 months, it was expiring on the 3rd of November. So it there was anything to be done, I had to do it before November.
First clarity was to be obtained from my line manager. When I told him, he gave me the permission and approval for leave. But I had a money issue. So the only solution was to apply for a short term loan which I did. So with the limited money and the time, I had to be only satisfied with Kilimanjaro and give up the idea of a Safari or Zanzibar tour. I told both Sen and Madawa and they wished me. So I made arrangement with trekking hero and planned to join a group there.
Unlike EBC, I didn't do much training and preparation. I had to take anti malaria tablets. Fortunately I had the clothes and other equipment that I bought for EBC. So within a few days I arranged everything and started on my journey. There were lot of wishes from my office colleagues and other friends. My family and those were the only strength that I had when I left Katunayake that day. At the airport, one lady immigration officer in fact asked me whether I was climbing Kilimanjaro and when I said yes, she had a brief chat and encouraged me as well. So as a lonely hiker I left Sri Lanka to Tanzania having doubts of whether I am to do it. It was a long journey. From the flight from Nairobi to Tanzania which was about one hour, I could take my first glance at Kilimanjaro from one side and mount Meru on the other. This actually raised hopes in me where it was standing as a giant and looking so majestic from the top.
When I got down, a representative from the company was waiting for me. I have so far only corresponded with emails. I have not seen them. But fortunately everything went well. He took me the vehicle where Bradely was waiting. He was Irish. He was the fist person to meet from our team. Then two guys Mark from Canada and Balan (An Indian working in Malaysia) also joined us. They were friends and have been travelling together.
While enjoying the Tanzanian country side from the windows of the vehicle we went to the hotel being tired after a long flight. Bradely and me shared a room while the other two shared one. After a good sleep for a couple of hours I got up. We were to meet the rest of the crew in the evening and our travel guides from the company was to come to give us brief on the tour.
So in the evening we went down and we were joined by Taciana, Pawan and Earl (a couple), Sahir and Shoba (Another couple) and Shekar (Indian working in Tanzania). There were some more to be met the following day and we all were given a briefing as to what to expect. They checked whether we all have got all the equipment that was needed. With a Hakuna Matata we ended the day after a brief getting to know each other. We all knew that we will not have a good sleep thinking about the big journey ahead. While in the room me and Bradley had a chat and we both were so excited, him specially being the youngest in the crew.
After the morning breakfast, we packed our things and waited for trekking hero to come and take us to the starting point. So we went into the van which was already filled with some new faces who were to join us. Then we stopped for a some time while the crew packed all the necessary equipment, food items, other utensils needed for the journey. Then we stopped near a supermarket for some to buy some last minute items and headed towards the Mechame gate which took us about 1.5 hours.
Kilimanjaro can be summitted by five main routes namely Marangue, Machame, Rongai, Shira and Lemosho. Each of them have their own advantages and disadvantages in terms of cost, duration, level of difficulty and so so. I choose the Machame which was a 6 day journey and is supposed to be one of the most beautiful and picturesque routes. So when we got down at the Machame gate, we had all the members in the team. There were 12 of us in the gang. We were a diverse groups. There were Canadians, Americans, Asians, Irish and also of both genders and also different age groups. I was indeed happy to see Shoba and Sahir whom everyone called Mamma and Pappa among us. They proved that age will not be a barrier if you are determined to do something in your mind.
So that is how it was started. We had a good lunch which was packed. And then we got ourselves registered and started our 6 day journey around 2 p.m.
Our destination was Machame camp for the day. This was about 11km from the gate and we had to take a route through a rain forest. As it was the first day and and I was not fully prepared it was getting a bit hard. On top there were in some places some steps to climb as well which I usually do not like during hikes. We were ascending from a height of 1640m to around 2850m. But the rain forest was an eye catcher. Green on either side was very pleasing to the eyes. The forest was rich in mosses, ferns but not many animals except for some monkeys, millipedes, rats. From the beginning what the guides say was "Poly Poly" which translated meant slowly slowly. In fact this was true. When you have a slow pace, that helps you for better acclimatization. It took us about 5 hours to reach the camp. All of us were at different speeds. It was like a warm up for the coming days.
The camp was already filled up with tents by the time we reached. The porters have already gone, set up the tents and started preparing our meals. I shared the tent with Shekar, who became my travel companion all the way. It was bit cold towards the night. we had some soup and some rice and went to sleep in the tents.
The following morning we had to be ready by 7. There were basins with water kept in front to clean ourselves. Then we went to the tent where the breakfast was ready. For all 12 of us, this tent was the place where we meet for breakfast, lunch and dinner where we have a small chat and discuss on the journey and what lies ahead.
Day two was harder. Our target was Shira camp was located about 3810 m high. Highest than Pidurutalagala which was the highest point in Sri Lanka. Although it was only 5km away, the steep was too high. Many rocky paths to undertake and mostly we had to pass through heather and moorlands. We reached the camp earlier than the previous day. Then we made a small tour to see the Shira caves where we heard ancient stories of how it was those days. This night gave us a good view of the summit. Also the evening was so beautiful specially the sky with beautiful colours.
Toilets were bit bad. So Shekar and me decided to poop outside. So in the night we took a bottle of water and went into the open and pooped behind a bush. I had cold water (Reasonably cold). So had a nice time for the butt. I guess this is where the Westerners are at an advantage as they only wipe and do not use water to clean their butts.
As usually we got up and had our breakfast on the following day morning. The day had two stops. We are to have lunch at the Lava tower and then reach the Barrcanco camp. Lava tour was about 4630m altitude while Barranco camp was having an altitude of 3975m. This was a good acclimatization for all. We continue to the east up a ridge and then head southeast towards the Lava Tower – a 300 ft tall volcanic rock formation. We descend down to Barranco Camp through the strange but beautiful Senecio Forest. This is where you really begin to feel the effect of altitude sickness. Headaches, nausea. Many even vomited, some had diarrhea. Somehow we managed to overcome this. But one of our members got asthma so she had to discontinue the journey and go back. It was a very cold and a tired night. We travelled about 10km.
The following day was the summiting night. We got up as usual and started our journey towards Barafu Camp which was at an altitude of 4673m. It was also about a 9km long trek. We began the day by descending into a ravine to the base of the Great Barranco Wall. Then we climb the non-technical but steep, nearly 900 ft cliff. From the top of the Barranco Wall we crossed a series of hills and valleys until we descend sharply into Karanga Valley. One more steep climb up lead us to Karanga Camp. We left Karanga and hit the junction which connected with the Mweka Trail. We continued up to the rocky section to Barafu Hut. At this point, we had completed the Southern Circuit, which offered views of the summit from many different angles. Here we made the camp, rest and enjoyed an early dinner to prepare for the summit day. The two peaks of Mawenzi and Kibo are viewable from this position.
We were to summit around midnight that day. I was exhausted. Even a little of altitude was getting into my head. I was having second thoughts as to whether I would do this or not. There were moments where I wanted to give up. Then Shekar came and encouraged me and said lets do it as we came all the way. I remembered my family and all people waiting in sri Lanka. I knew if I didn't do it that day it will never happen. So I boosted up my courage and decided to do it whatever there was. I could not eat that day too. Just had a hot tea and out we went into pitch darkness and extreme cold. Only our headlights and the guides were there to lead us along the way.
It was the longest walk ever. The time seems to be still. Every breath made me exhausting. We were climbing up and up with no sense of where we are. The frequent question we asked was are we there yet or how long, how many hours more. It was so cold even to get water out to drink. Most of the water in my non thermal bottle froze. The entire group was scattered. Me Shekar and Sahir were finally together with our porter. It was so tired even to tie up a shoelace. There was no giving up. we had to continue. This went on. The peak was almost visible but we were not there physically. I was covered fully with snow. On either side it was covered in full with snow.
The wind and cold at this elevation and time of day was so extreme as this was not the season. Finally we reached the Stella Point (18,900 ft). Most people stop there because of the exhaustion. BUt we decided to move on to the highest point. Finally, we arrived at Uhuru Peak- the highest point on Mount Kilimanjaro and the continent of Africa. Yes I made it, to the roof of Africa. The feeling is indescribable. I was so tired but overjoyed. After taking a few photos we started descending.
It was as if the legs had withered out. Rather than climbing down it was as if we were moving with gravity. I fell many a times in sand. The snow in the morning had melted. It was sand now. Like the ascend we descended. I honestly didn't care as to where I kept my step. I just wanted to climb down as fast as possible. So finally we reached the camp. Both Shehar and me were so tired. We hugged and then went straight into the tent to have a small nap. By the time we were called for lunch all of us had reached the camp. All 11 of us did the climb but only some could made it up to the summit. Pawan was asked to be married at the top (Which I thought was Romantic and something that any girl would love to have). We started to move to the next camp. It took us about 2 hours to reach the camp. we were so exhausted. Everyone was waiting to have a good night sleep. It was a happy night as we did it. The weather was bit bad and we received some showers. Our tent got wet with water as well. But because of the exhaustion we didn't care.
The following day was the last bit of the trek. We had to walk for about 5 hours to reach the gate. It was still raining and the road was muddy. All of us just moved. Legs bearly being able to walk. We were soaked in water. But slowly slowly we did it and when the gate was almost visible to the eyes, the feeling was so immense that I felt like crying. But everyone was happy. Everyone was congratulating each other, cheering. It was a night to celebrate. What was in all of our minds was hot showers, cosy beds, warm rooms.
At each camp we went we had to sign in which was a sign that we made it. The final signing was to be done at the gate. We were so hungry as well. So finally the most awaited bus came. And we went back to the hotel before which we had a short stop for a quick lunch.
Throughout the journey we had to sleep in tents. Most of the time it was only a few clothes to wear. No place for us to have a bath, no proper toilet. Most of the time it was out in open. Cold weather, wind and rain were additional challenges to the altitude. And as many said this was the worst time to hike Kilimanjaro.
But life is always about challenges. If it was the same routine the life will always be boring. Once in way it is good to move out of your comfort zones, push your limits and see where you can go. These types of adventure shows us that we need to be ready to face even minimal conditions that life would offer.
It is not always possible to choose what you want. Sometimes you have t o give in for what the life expects out of you. When you look at the porters that carry your luggage and think about how much they sweat in order to earn a few dollars, the level of poverty that they face, we feel how grateful we are for having what we have today.
Another thing is to remember is that excuses like age and gender should not be a barrier when it comes to pursue what you dream and passionate about. It is when you stepped out of your box that you live and go to into the world to see what is happening outside, you realize that what a narrow minded life we live, how narrow our perspectives are. You need to mix and associate people whom you do not meet regularly and get to know their thinking patters, behaviours, views on life. We live in a global environment. We have to get that global exposure.
So I thank all my team members, Trekking Hero, my family and all my well wishes who were there and made the summiting of the journey possible.
Live your life, constantly challenge your self. You will always find a different version of you.
So in the evening we went down and we were joined by Taciana, Pawan and Earl (a couple), Sahir and Shoba (Another couple) and Shekar (Indian working in Tanzania). There were some more to be met the following day and we all were given a briefing as to what to expect. They checked whether we all have got all the equipment that was needed. With a Hakuna Matata we ended the day after a brief getting to know each other. We all knew that we will not have a good sleep thinking about the big journey ahead. While in the room me and Bradley had a chat and we both were so excited, him specially being the youngest in the crew.
After the morning breakfast, we packed our things and waited for trekking hero to come and take us to the starting point. So we went into the van which was already filled with some new faces who were to join us. Then we stopped for a some time while the crew packed all the necessary equipment, food items, other utensils needed for the journey. Then we stopped near a supermarket for some to buy some last minute items and headed towards the Mechame gate which took us about 1.5 hours.
Kilimanjaro can be summitted by five main routes namely Marangue, Machame, Rongai, Shira and Lemosho. Each of them have their own advantages and disadvantages in terms of cost, duration, level of difficulty and so so. I choose the Machame which was a 6 day journey and is supposed to be one of the most beautiful and picturesque routes. So when we got down at the Machame gate, we had all the members in the team. There were 12 of us in the gang. We were a diverse groups. There were Canadians, Americans, Asians, Irish and also of both genders and also different age groups. I was indeed happy to see Shoba and Sahir whom everyone called Mamma and Pappa among us. They proved that age will not be a barrier if you are determined to do something in your mind.
So that is how it was started. We had a good lunch which was packed. And then we got ourselves registered and started our 6 day journey around 2 p.m.
Our destination was Machame camp for the day. This was about 11km from the gate and we had to take a route through a rain forest. As it was the first day and and I was not fully prepared it was getting a bit hard. On top there were in some places some steps to climb as well which I usually do not like during hikes. We were ascending from a height of 1640m to around 2850m. But the rain forest was an eye catcher. Green on either side was very pleasing to the eyes. The forest was rich in mosses, ferns but not many animals except for some monkeys, millipedes, rats. From the beginning what the guides say was "Poly Poly" which translated meant slowly slowly. In fact this was true. When you have a slow pace, that helps you for better acclimatization. It took us about 5 hours to reach the camp. All of us were at different speeds. It was like a warm up for the coming days.
The camp was already filled up with tents by the time we reached. The porters have already gone, set up the tents and started preparing our meals. I shared the tent with Shekar, who became my travel companion all the way. It was bit cold towards the night. we had some soup and some rice and went to sleep in the tents.
The following morning we had to be ready by 7. There were basins with water kept in front to clean ourselves. Then we went to the tent where the breakfast was ready. For all 12 of us, this tent was the place where we meet for breakfast, lunch and dinner where we have a small chat and discuss on the journey and what lies ahead.
Day two was harder. Our target was Shira camp was located about 3810 m high. Highest than Pidurutalagala which was the highest point in Sri Lanka. Although it was only 5km away, the steep was too high. Many rocky paths to undertake and mostly we had to pass through heather and moorlands. We reached the camp earlier than the previous day. Then we made a small tour to see the Shira caves where we heard ancient stories of how it was those days. This night gave us a good view of the summit. Also the evening was so beautiful specially the sky with beautiful colours.
Toilets were bit bad. So Shekar and me decided to poop outside. So in the night we took a bottle of water and went into the open and pooped behind a bush. I had cold water (Reasonably cold). So had a nice time for the butt. I guess this is where the Westerners are at an advantage as they only wipe and do not use water to clean their butts.
As usually we got up and had our breakfast on the following day morning. The day had two stops. We are to have lunch at the Lava tower and then reach the Barrcanco camp. Lava tour was about 4630m altitude while Barranco camp was having an altitude of 3975m. This was a good acclimatization for all. We continue to the east up a ridge and then head southeast towards the Lava Tower – a 300 ft tall volcanic rock formation. We descend down to Barranco Camp through the strange but beautiful Senecio Forest. This is where you really begin to feel the effect of altitude sickness. Headaches, nausea. Many even vomited, some had diarrhea. Somehow we managed to overcome this. But one of our members got asthma so she had to discontinue the journey and go back. It was a very cold and a tired night. We travelled about 10km.
The following day was the summiting night. We got up as usual and started our journey towards Barafu Camp which was at an altitude of 4673m. It was also about a 9km long trek. We began the day by descending into a ravine to the base of the Great Barranco Wall. Then we climb the non-technical but steep, nearly 900 ft cliff. From the top of the Barranco Wall we crossed a series of hills and valleys until we descend sharply into Karanga Valley. One more steep climb up lead us to Karanga Camp. We left Karanga and hit the junction which connected with the Mweka Trail. We continued up to the rocky section to Barafu Hut. At this point, we had completed the Southern Circuit, which offered views of the summit from many different angles. Here we made the camp, rest and enjoyed an early dinner to prepare for the summit day. The two peaks of Mawenzi and Kibo are viewable from this position.
We were to summit around midnight that day. I was exhausted. Even a little of altitude was getting into my head. I was having second thoughts as to whether I would do this or not. There were moments where I wanted to give up. Then Shekar came and encouraged me and said lets do it as we came all the way. I remembered my family and all people waiting in sri Lanka. I knew if I didn't do it that day it will never happen. So I boosted up my courage and decided to do it whatever there was. I could not eat that day too. Just had a hot tea and out we went into pitch darkness and extreme cold. Only our headlights and the guides were there to lead us along the way.
It was the longest walk ever. The time seems to be still. Every breath made me exhausting. We were climbing up and up with no sense of where we are. The frequent question we asked was are we there yet or how long, how many hours more. It was so cold even to get water out to drink. Most of the water in my non thermal bottle froze. The entire group was scattered. Me Shekar and Sahir were finally together with our porter. It was so tired even to tie up a shoelace. There was no giving up. we had to continue. This went on. The peak was almost visible but we were not there physically. I was covered fully with snow. On either side it was covered in full with snow.
The wind and cold at this elevation and time of day was so extreme as this was not the season. Finally we reached the Stella Point (18,900 ft). Most people stop there because of the exhaustion. BUt we decided to move on to the highest point. Finally, we arrived at Uhuru Peak- the highest point on Mount Kilimanjaro and the continent of Africa. Yes I made it, to the roof of Africa. The feeling is indescribable. I was so tired but overjoyed. After taking a few photos we started descending.
It was as if the legs had withered out. Rather than climbing down it was as if we were moving with gravity. I fell many a times in sand. The snow in the morning had melted. It was sand now. Like the ascend we descended. I honestly didn't care as to where I kept my step. I just wanted to climb down as fast as possible. So finally we reached the camp. Both Shehar and me were so tired. We hugged and then went straight into the tent to have a small nap. By the time we were called for lunch all of us had reached the camp. All 11 of us did the climb but only some could made it up to the summit. Pawan was asked to be married at the top (Which I thought was Romantic and something that any girl would love to have). We started to move to the next camp. It took us about 2 hours to reach the camp. we were so exhausted. Everyone was waiting to have a good night sleep. It was a happy night as we did it. The weather was bit bad and we received some showers. Our tent got wet with water as well. But because of the exhaustion we didn't care.
The following day was the last bit of the trek. We had to walk for about 5 hours to reach the gate. It was still raining and the road was muddy. All of us just moved. Legs bearly being able to walk. We were soaked in water. But slowly slowly we did it and when the gate was almost visible to the eyes, the feeling was so immense that I felt like crying. But everyone was happy. Everyone was congratulating each other, cheering. It was a night to celebrate. What was in all of our minds was hot showers, cosy beds, warm rooms.
At each camp we went we had to sign in which was a sign that we made it. The final signing was to be done at the gate. We were so hungry as well. So finally the most awaited bus came. And we went back to the hotel before which we had a short stop for a quick lunch.
Throughout the journey we had to sleep in tents. Most of the time it was only a few clothes to wear. No place for us to have a bath, no proper toilet. Most of the time it was out in open. Cold weather, wind and rain were additional challenges to the altitude. And as many said this was the worst time to hike Kilimanjaro.
But life is always about challenges. If it was the same routine the life will always be boring. Once in way it is good to move out of your comfort zones, push your limits and see where you can go. These types of adventure shows us that we need to be ready to face even minimal conditions that life would offer.
It is not always possible to choose what you want. Sometimes you have t o give in for what the life expects out of you. When you look at the porters that carry your luggage and think about how much they sweat in order to earn a few dollars, the level of poverty that they face, we feel how grateful we are for having what we have today.
Another thing is to remember is that excuses like age and gender should not be a barrier when it comes to pursue what you dream and passionate about. It is when you stepped out of your box that you live and go to into the world to see what is happening outside, you realize that what a narrow minded life we live, how narrow our perspectives are. You need to mix and associate people whom you do not meet regularly and get to know their thinking patters, behaviours, views on life. We live in a global environment. We have to get that global exposure.
So I thank all my team members, Trekking Hero, my family and all my well wishes who were there and made the summiting of the journey possible.
Live your life, constantly challenge your self. You will always find a different version of you.
